Monday, September 15, 2008

A life of contrasts.

Today was a breakthrough day for me in Kenya. I went through my entire day without once feeling overwhelmed or frustrated. I traveled by myself to a place I had never been before, spent the day at an amazing internship talking to some fascinating Kenyans, made my way through the jam by myself back to Westlands, and going grocery shopping with friends. A good day, and a day that proves that I will get used to this, and the bad times will eventually disappear and become more days to enjoy this amazing place.

On my internship. I am now the new intern at Action Now Kenya (ANK). Right on the edge of the slum Kibera, ANK is a non-profit that provides micro-financing to women of various slums around Nairobi. To non-econ people, this means that ANK gives out small loans to women in order to expand their small businesses within their communities. These loans are paid back in increments with very low interest. Through this loan program they can also obtain information on HIV and financial leadership training. These women, being in informal slums and not even technically counted as part of Nairobi population, would never ever have a chance at a loan at a bank, so this is their only chance to expand their business. I spent today reading the profiles and stories of all of the women who receive loans. There are some amazing stories out there. In the slums of Nairobi, a $100 loan can mean the difference, literally, of live and death for a business or even a family. I read a story of a woman widowed by HIV who is supporting her seven children and five nieces/nephews (orphaned by HIV) with a small candlemaking store in Kibera. Amazing stories. The greatest part of this internship is that I get to meet these women. I will be working with the Community Mobilizer, which means I will be going into the slums and talking these women. I will be interviewing them before the loan to get their story, which I will then send into Kiva, the funder of the loans. After they get the loan, I will be visiting them to see what impact the micro-loan made on the business and if the funds are being used correctly. I’m pretty excited.

I’m getting used to this place. I can greet people without offending them, I can ride matatus without fear, I can talk politics with the old lady sitting next to me on the bus. When I first drove through Nairobi, I thought I would never understand the jumbled mess that was this urban infrastructure. Now, when I ride through, I not only know where I am and where I’m going; I also know the names of several streets, roundabouts, and important buildings. I walk through the streets as a white woman and only feel minorly out of place. I can even deal with crazy shop owners who try to pull you in their shops. This might all sound very simplistic and rudimentary for someone who’s been somewhere for three weeks now, but it’s an entirely different story south of the Sahara, so I feel proud of myself.

Before coming here, I knew conceptually where I was going. I knew, in theory, that the third world would be completely different from what I was used to. But theory and reality are such different things. Being here has already completely altered, forever, my view of the world: how it works, and how it should work. Living in Njema Court makes it possible to escape, but only for so long. I’ve been painting a happy picture of Nairobi, mostly because I like it a lot. But it’s hard. The electricity goes out almost everyday, sometimes for several hours. If you drink the water without boiling it, you will probably get typhoid at some point. Even if you boil the water, something will give you the stomach bug several times while you’re here. Your feet are black, literally, every night from the dust and pollution. You are faced everyday with the apathy of the police and the frantic failings of the government. And this is when you’re white. Everyday I live a life of contrasts, going between Njema Court where I have a toilet and hot water to places that have one toilet for every 200 people. I personally witness the struggle for life that goes on everyday, and then return here to type on my Mac every night. The contrast is hardest for me. It’s something that will stay with me forever.

Also, sorry for everyone who has emailed me and have not received an email back yet. I've been super busy or exhausted, but you will be contacted back shortly!

7 comments:

Jenelle said...

Wow Erin, that really puts my life in perspective. And I mean that in all sincerity.
I hope you are finding time to enjoy yourself as well as putting yourself on the fast track to righting the world's wrongs.
I hope your internship continues to be fascinating. You will have to talk to Nanette about it.

Gary said...

I will forgo the usual weak attempts at humor, and just say that this sounds pretty amazing. Microloans are great things, and you are, too!

Anonymous said...

I love this post.
I'm so happy for you

Anonymous said...

ERIN, IT HAS BEEN SAID " I WOULD RATHER LIGHT A CANDLE THAN CURSE THE DARKNESS." YOU HAVE LIT A CANDLE THAT SHINES BRIGHTLY ON A PATH FOR OTHERS TO FOLLOW. HAPPY REST AND RECREATION TIMES TO YOU ALSO ALONG THE TRAIL. WE'VE HAD A PRETTY, BRIGHT, FULL HARVEST MOON SKY HERE THE LAST COUPLE OF NIGHTS. LOVE FROM G AND G O.

Emily McKnight said...

Hey there. If I promise you $30 will you buy me lots of random, but fun things? Especially from these women? I would love to buy a candle from Africa and help someone at the same time. I don't know if funds would be to tight for that or whatnot, but let me know!

Anonymous said...

Erin..this is truly a once in a lifetime experience....with the good and the bad...U can only grow from this experience

Mac said...

I am really glad to hear that you are enjoying yourself and learning so much. I really hope that this experience continues to fuel growth!